Friday, October 28, 2011

The pain never felt so good.



It is strangely satisfying to wear your first holes in a pair of climbing shoes. For the past two weeks I have been expanding the wear spots and stretching the seams. Practically climbing on my big toe has caused me to look for more heel-hooking opportunities. You'll soon be getting a review on Chris Sharma's Pontas made by Evolve.

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Traveling the Road to Emmaus

After projecting consistently for a month, Neil and I finally have red-pointed "The Road to Emmaus," a thirty foot length traverse in which you travel half way around the boulder and then up "Elmer Gantry" to sit on the peak, and enjoy the feeling of well earned accomplishment. Neil breezed cleanly through on his first attempt today, redeeming his five failed attempts yesterday. After he busted the mental barrier I jumped up and walked right down the same path with less suave but more drama. The moves were easy after we had rehearsed it into an intuitive state. It was awkwardly satisfying; there wasn't one of those moments where I pushed through pain and held on beyond previous conceived possibility, but at the end sitting up top I thought about how long we had worked to get to that moment, how much I had learned, and then the weight was felt. That's what this climb was, the weight of hard work, perseverance, pain, and obvious growth resulting in satisfied accomplishment - oh, and it's fun!

What a wonderful day! Strength and vigor was amply bestowed upon us, enough to start projecting a new traverse the back side, which I hope ends up including a reaching heal-hook. Give it a shot, first one over and up is non-rotten egg, and gets to name it.

Monday, October 10, 2011

Emerson you will stand, I will surmount

Well, this past Sunday I surpassed my expectations and completed the second half of the current project: The lengthy traverse of the Emerson boulder. At this point I can't say that tomorrow's planned attempt with Neil Roessler will be successful, but the chances are good for the ol' chap and me. I am not one for excuses, but the holes in my shoes have added excruciation to slipping foot holds at the bottom of face traverse. There appear to be only a few options: 1) Wait till the REI opens up and I have enough money to buy a new pair of shoes; 2) Get my shoes resoled; 3) Keep climbing anyway until 1 or 2 is affordable. 3 it is! I am excited, I just need to start bearing more weight on my left foot, and get an even ware.

Emerson shall be surmounted soon enough my friends, I improve with every attempt. If there is one thing that I appreciate in climbing, its the noticeable progress. Contrasted with grunting frustrating two three weeks ago, the previous crux is now passable with little emotional strain.